Diary

London Calling

wetkarma.

Posted to Diary on Fri Oct 06, 2006 at 10:55:24 PM EST. RSS.

No its not the Clash.

But for reasons I'll probably go into separately on my blog, I'm bailing the SS USA and taking berth -at least temporarily-  on the HMS UK. So here is a prime opportunity for those of you familiar with London life (Kiwiana?) what I need to know in order to acclimatize to london life.

Whats the deal with cellphone plans? Who should I use?
Ditto for broadband provider?

Where do the cool kids live and why is it so bloody expensive for housing?

All tips welcome.

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1

Re: London Calling

3fingerspointback.

Sun Oct 08, 2006 at 12:53:09 AM EST

none

The nice thing about cellphone plans in Europe is that they're practically commitment-free.  The phones cost a bunch, but the airtime is really cheap, and if you want to switch providers, it's much easier than in the states.

And you may not have to get a new phone.  If you have a GSM phone, try calling up your cell carrier and telling them that you're leaving the country, then asking them to unlock your phone.  T-Mobile is pretty nice about it if you've had your phone for a while, others less so.

(is 3fingerspointback)

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Re: London Calling

wetkarma.

Sun Oct 08, 2006 at 07:48:26 AM EST

none

So pay-as-you-go is the way to go?  Any particular recommended provider? I'm looking for the equivalent of a family plan with 500 mins for around $60.

Memory is a strange bell, jubilee and knell.

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Re: London Calling

3fingerspointback.

Mon Oct 09, 2006 at 09:50:19 PM EST

none

I'm afraid I have no recommendations, provider-wise.  If you have any future colleagues that are already in London, they should know.

(is 3fingerspointback)

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Re: London Calling

kiwiana.

Mon Oct 09, 2006 at 10:15:02 AM EST

none

Where do all the cool kids live...? I can't say much about the London outside the inner suburbs, but here's my 2 cents.

There is a lot of "coolness" in the East end.  Mainly this is centred around the newly gentrified/artsifartsy-ised bits of the previously diabolically grim Shoreditch/Old St etc.  But do not let the "cool" label fool you.  It still mostly sucks in the East, prices for half-decent places are astronomical, and unless you yourself are a media wanker you'll find the overwhelming presence of said wankers gets pretty tired.  That said, there are probably a few pockets of goodness (just hard to find and you might get stabbed while looking).

South - there is a tendency among young professional people to move south of the river when they pop out a sprog or two.  There is also a massive over-supply of Australians in places like Clapham etc.  I never go south of the river (look at a map of London and a tube map and you will see why).  Transport connections can be good if you are near a mainline station but heaven forbid you should ever have to commute on the Northern line.  

North - some bits are lovely but again it can be a hell of a commute. There are some cool/grungy bits (Camden) and some very posh bits (Primrose Hill, Belsize Park) that are near to the city.

West.  I have always lived in the West, in fact I've never changed postcodes.  My particular haunts are Maida Vale/Little Venice although I can recommend (most of) the surrounding area (go W9!).  I'm a little north of the famous Notting Hill, which though it has a few very wealthy corners is in fact still pretty rough indeed.  Most of the housing in our area is Georgian or Victorian, a lot of that is split up into flats, and though it can be expensive it's not necessarily so.  You do have to hunt about - go for the roughest street in the nicest area!  The West also has more parks than the rest of the city put together which is a major plus if you are one of the many who have to make do without a garden of your own.

Landlords are c*nts here, you are bound to get your deposit reduced.  Also, if you go through an agent to find a flat you will pay a fairly big fee to them.

Pitfalls - really think about your commute - it is no fun to stay on the underground for up to an hour which is fairly common if you have to travel from one side of the city to the other.  London is really, really big.  The transport network is split into zones - the centre of the city is zone one and if you live out as far as zone 3 it is a major distance to travel.  Transport costs are very high.  If you are brave enough, ride a bike!

Many other tips I suppose I could offer.  I have a long list of great pubs handily located all over the city :)  That's another culture shock for Americans I imagine - people here DRINK. a LOT.

the only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory.

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Re: London Calling

wetkarma.

Mon Oct 09, 2006 at 02:46:00 PM EST

none

Thanks for the response. Would love to ask more questions via email.

Like: I'll be working probably on the East side --Canary Wharf area. As you point out I want to be relatively close to work and on the same tube line (Victoria??) . Any particular neighborhood comes to mind?

Send an email to my domain name - wetkarma.com (any address you make up will do), I'll respond and give you my real addrress.

Memory is a strange bell, jubilee and knell.

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Re: London Calling

cutta.

Tue Oct 10, 2006 at 04:58:17 AM EST

none

Welcome to London.

You could actually live in or close to Canary Wharf. The area's been totally redeveloped in the last 15 years - Europe's biggest building site apparently. Personally I find it a bit new and characterless, but the area has all the amenities you'd need and a short commute is something to treasure.

Also easy for getting to Canary Wharf/Docklands are the East End and over the river in Greenwich. The East End is much like Kiwiana described it, but unlike Kiwiana I like it, particularly the massively wanky Hoxton/Shoreditch area. Make sure your hair looks like you had it done for a bet if you live round there though. Greenwich is pretty and has a villagey feel, but I don't know it well.

I live in Angel, which I've found to be as good as anywhere for getting about London. Close to a few main hubs, on bus routes going NSE&W and, best of all, within walking distance of the Shoreditch, the City and the historic centre. Further north you've got the rest of Islington and hippie-friendly Stoke Newington. Both are smart and middle-class. You could get the overland train to Stratford from here.

The south is more of a sprawl and generally cheaper. It's got great parts but it's a pain in the arse to get around so I won't recommend living there.

Don't forget you've got the finest piece of graphic design ever to help you (unless you're in the south, suckers). The tfl journey planner is useful too, but comes unstuck on overland trains, which aren't properly integrated with the rest of the transport system yet.

As for stuff to do, general advice etc, here's a few to start:

1 Do free things. London's very expensive but it's easy to do something free and interesting: BBC TV and radio recordings, lectures and other stuff. The big museums and the Tate Modern are free too, and if you're around next summer there's a music or cultural festival of some sort or other every weekend.

2 Get lost. It's easy to get to know London as just islands around Tube stations. Go on random walks. Get a tube or bus somewhere new and walk home. Central London (Zone 1) isn't that big anyway, so you can get to know it quickly.

(2b Walk. Spend a day walking Regent's canal, the parks, the river.)

3 Talk to people. There's nothing Londoners enjoy more than the chance to talk to a stranger on the Tube. Try to engage the whole carriage in a conversation if you can. Ask them about the Queen, as they'll most likely have met her.

4 Don't eat anywhere with the word "Angus" in the name.

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Re: London Calling

kiwiana.

Tue Oct 10, 2006 at 05:17:08 PM EST

none

hear hear to all of that, matie ( or some such london lingo...)

In truth I have been in london a short time yet, and am always looking for more inside lines.  Cutta is your man as a much longer resident.  Angel, though? are you one of those haircuts yourself cutta?

the only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory.

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Re: London Calling

cutta.

Wed Oct 11, 2006 at 06:34:29 AM EST

none

Well the hairdresser I go to was parodied in Nathan Barley...

10

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Re: London Calling

socky.

Thu Oct 12, 2006 at 07:46:07 AM EST

none

Although the Victoria Line runs out East-ish, lots of East and North-East London is exceptionally bad for connnections to Canary Wharf.

Several perfectly nice people I work with live either side of the eastward reaches of the river - Wapping north, and Rotherhithe to the south, and seem to like it. Both of these are recently developed with purpose-built flats (apartments) which are likely to be more or less trouble-free and may even have decent cable/fibre connections. However you really should walk around any area during the day on a working day to see what the non-commuting denizens are like. Lots of East, and West, South, and North, London is pretty hairy and the scary bits are often cheek-by-jowl with nice bits. eg, Stoke Newington - organic enclave in Hackney - is nice if a bit up-its-own-arse and hand-knitted, but estate agents will extend its borders into Dalston which gets pretty interesting at night. Imagine Asheville, NC with the most boarded-up part of Durham, NC across the road, complete with crack dens. That said, Hackney generally has some lovely bits and some extremely handsome housing/treelined streets. Hackney is famously, although North of the river, not on the tube.

No idea what your budget is but if you want to stay relatively handy in the North, you might look at Holloway, particularly Lower Holloway, around Waitrose/the women's prison (really). Very nice streets, still fairly affordable, one stop outside Zone 1 on the Piccadilly Line which, because it runs to Heathrow, is generally reliable and runs later and earlier than most others. Also it has air steward(esse)s doing their faces on it at any time of day, which I think of as an iconic London sight. Upper Holloway and Archway are slightly further out but also OK - all of these areas have some nice pubs, nice streets and some scary social housing, and horrible main roads which are little less than freeways cutting throough their centres.

Things to do: see live music.   Good venues include the Luminaire in Kilburn and Spitz at Spitalfield Market although this will depend on what you like listening to/watching. There are hundreds of tiny places with all sorts of things on, from pub bands to ferocious but tiny club nights. Start with Time Out or a genre-specfic website and work outwards from there.

Buy women's shoes; every time I have been on holiday in the US even what I thought were my boring work/driving shoes have caused a (positive) stir.

Depending on your job, get a fancy haircut - not necessarily a Hoxton jokewig, but our posh hairdressers are still 60% cheaper, and 70% less conservative, than their equivalents in LA, NY and Chicago.

Learn to drink. Don't, please, learn to lark about on the pavements shouting and singing and conducting courtships that everyone else wishes you would keep private. But there is a lot of fun to be had sitting in a nice pub with nice people for a few hours. Fewer laptops than Starbucks, for a start.

6

Poor old Johnny Ray

Steve Urkel.

Tue Oct 10, 2006 at 12:40:33 AM EST

none

They call Sprite and 7up lemonade. I don't know what they call American lemonde - punch maybe?

Also that Dexy's Midnight Runner urban-hilbilly look never went out of style over there, so you might want to buy some overalls and a kerchief.

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