Etcetera

The Road to Hell is Paved with Fair Trade Coffee Bricks

3fingerspointback.

Posted to Etcetera on Sat Dec 16, 2006 at 08:06:15 AM EST (promoted by port1080). RSS.

This week's Economist includes a special feature devoted to taking down a notch the three most popular movements for food activism: Organics, Fair Trade, and Local Food.

The appeal of Organic food is that it is not made with pesticides or synthetic fertilizers, increasing the sustainability of the practice.  But this type of farming process produces lower yields of food per acre than one can get using synthetic fertilizers.  Agriculture pioneer Norman Borlaug contends that if the pro-synthetic principles of his Green Revolution had not been followed, the world would require triple the amount of current farmland to feed the current population, endangering rainforest land even more than it is now.  What's more, the energy saved by not using synthetic fertilizers is more than counterbalanced by the additional energy needed to plow and weed the land.

FAIRTRADE certification is supposed to guarantee to you the consumer that your product was negotiated with producers in the third world at  prices that support sustainable development.  But Fair Trade practices may also create more problems than they solve.  The certification process bypasses larger farms and plantations that employ many laborers in order to funnel money to a few.  Furthermore, the certification acts as a subsidy to keep farmers in the business of unprofitable products instead of diversifying into more lucrative crops.  And now that the noted malnutrition profiteer and occasional union-buster Nestlé has started selling its own line of Fairtrade-certified coffee, some within the movement are wondering if the certification is meaningful any more.

The appeal of locally produced food is that one can get food fresh and cut their energy footprint.  But, the calculation of energy usage is not so simple as figuring out the farm's distance.  Some foods are simply not suited to the local climate, and to provide the heat/water/shelter required to grow them may take more energy than it takes to ship it from another continent.  Farmer's markets are rarer than supermarkets, and the amount of extra gas spent by two hundred cars can outweigh the energy requirements of a refrigerator truck.

The Economist article concludes, a little out of character, that the best way to affect change in food policy is through political action and not consumption habits.  This is not a certain conclusion--many of the article's points are easily mitigated by a growth in popularity of organics, or of more novel approaches to farming.  But what is to be done if it comes out that you are simply unable to buy your favorite food without contributing somehow to global misery?

Tags: edited by Port1080, written by 3fingerspointback, coffee, fair trade, organic, food, environment (all tags)

This story: 16 comments (3 from subqueue)
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1

Organic better? Meh

port1080.

Sat Dec 16, 2006 at 02:51:57 PM EST

5.00 (brilliant)

I grew up on a relatively low-tech farm, so I have a better idea of what it takes to grow food the old fashioned way than most organic food junkies. While I do appreciate that a lot of organic food is of a better quality, that quality comes from the extra care taken in growing the crops (and the fact that they're usually more fresh, or of a tastier but less productive breed) rather than the fact that they're "organic." I've grown some great tasting heirloom tomatoes that were better than anything organic you could buy at Trader Joe's or wherever, and we sprayed the hell out of them with whatever pesticides we could get our hands on. Maybe I'll die a few years earlier than you from cancer...but one the other hand, you're a heck of a lot more likely to get E. coli from lettuce grown in organic cow shit than you are to get it from something grown in a good nitrogen fertilizer.

The problem is that people are too far divorced from where the food that goes in their mouth actually comes from - so everybody gets all squeamish when they realize that growing stuff isn't pretty. I think it's because it reminds us of death, and that we're no more able to escape the life cycle than anything else. Everything grows and everything dies, and even plants feed on the dead, in a sense. The attempt to get away from that is what drove us to the super-sterile supermarket model in the first place - but now that the brutality of even "modern" farming is again becoming relatively common knowledge people think that they can somehow sanitize it by going "organic." Face facts - when you eat, you're killing something. Get over it.

Ce n'est pas une pipe. C'est une signature.

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Re: Organic better? Meh

Coelacanth.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 08:59:39 AM EST

none

Good stuff.  But while there is plenty of ambiguity over the provable (or not provable) benefits of organic farming, I will say this.  I'd rather have a few blemishes and the occasional bug on my produce if that means it doesn't need to be sprayed repeatedly with pesticides.  And global effects aside, I love those heirloom tomatoes, fresh greens, and un-homogenized milk, so I go to the farmers' market every weekend.

The recent E. coli outbreaks are strange, though.  It's not like we haven't grown veggies in cow shit for centuries.  Have we lost the ability to fight off these bugs?  

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Re: Organic better? Meh

gerrymander.

Tue Dec 19, 2006 at 11:06:39 PM EST

none

Have we lost the ability to fight off these bugs?

You can't lose what you never had. Sure, some strains of E. coli and other microorganisms are more virulent than others, but they're all parasites. We're just wealthier, which gives us a wide range of ways to combat the worst effects, from good nutrition/refrigeration to sanitation and medicine. Without ready supplies of vitamins A, C and E, plus sterile water, soap and drugs, we'd have the same scary "some large X percent of people die from diarrhea and dehydration" stats which come from Third World countries.

But like they say, pick your poison...

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Organic and E. coli

coquito.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 09:59:17 AM EST

none

I think your post has alot to commend it, but I thought I should mention one thing - you imply (perhaps unintentionally) that the recent E. coli outbreak was due to organic farming methods. That does not appear to be the case. There was no E. coli contamination found in organically grown spinach.

Now with caps!

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Re: Organic and E. coli

port1080.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 10:47:21 AM EST

none

you imply (perhaps unintentionally) that the recent E. coli outbreak was due to organic farming methods.

Yeah, that wasn't intentional - I just meant to get across the point that organic farming isn't necessarily "safer" than modern farming. Organic farming is supposed to be some kind of "back to the roots" movement - but farming in the "old days" wasn't all fun and games, and (to answer Coelacanth above) people got food poising and so on all the time - they just didn't know why they got sick. The lack of understanding of proper food hygiene remains a large part of the reason why mortality rates are so much higher in developing countries.

That said, it is possible to farm organically in a hygienic manner - it's just more difficult. This leads to what I was really trying to get across - that the reason organic farming seems better right now is because organic farmers typically put a lot more effort into their crop (because they're selling it as a high value item). If a small time farmer put that much effort into his crop and used commercial fertilizer and pesticides, it would look and taste better than the organic product every time.

Ce n'est pas une pipe. C'est une signature.

3

Missing the Point

marburg.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 09:48:38 AM EST

3.00

The article misses the point.  It's not just about these things being more environmentally friendly: There's a suite of reasons behind eating things.  For one, as the first commenter noted, oftentimes organic stuff tastes better.  It may not be 100% of the time, but it's very often the case.

Second, I think it's important to have an investment in "the little guy," something the writers at The Economist surely know nothing about.  If variety is the spice of life, then getting all my mushrooms and spinach from Aunt Mid, who, as a boardroom full of old guys, is neither an aunt nor named Mid, would make my life pretty dull.  I shop at small, local wine shops because they give me better stuff to buy.  They're the ones who sell wine made from tiny Loire producers or under-priced burgundy and so on and who give me choices other than Sam Adams in the beer aisle.  I buy tea at small shops because I can drink good loose leaf.  I may not have the 500 varieties of fake fruit-blended tea to choose from like I would from a larger place, but it's all quality, and the choice is plenty diverse -- especially if you go to multiple stores.  And I buy from local farmers when I can because the food not only tastes better and seems fresher and better treated, it's a guy growing stuff in my neighborhood, supplying great vegetables directly to top restaurants.  If I only support corporate farmers, that guy might not be around next year, and we need him around just like we need the wine shop and the tea store.

Variety and choice and a general sense of quality being paramount, going with "the little guy" who cares about what he's selling or growing is appealing.  The article seems to ignore that.

Third, the environmental benefits aren't just measured in dry statistics like soil readings.  It's hard to support companies that grow their animals in pens the size of my laptop and keep the lights on all night, et cetera.  And it's hard to justify sucking down chemical pesticides.  I don't want to eat that stuff.  Even ignoring the "food miles" and pollution and all of that, it boils down to a simple principle: Putting fake chemicals into something natural has never been a good, consequence-free way to do much of anything.

There are trade-offs to everything, but the local, organic beef I get is cheaper and tastes better.  And while I'm hardly an animal rights activist, I do like to know that the cow wasn't royally abused to bring me my delicious burger.  I couldn't do it any other way.

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Re: Missing the Point

port1080.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 11:04:08 AM EST

none

And I buy from local farmers when I can because the food not only tastes better and seems fresher and better treated, it's a guy growing stuff in my neighborhood, supplying great vegetables directly to top restaurants. If I only support corporate farmers, that guy might not be around next year, and we need him around just like we need the wine shop and the tea store.

I certainly agree with this sentiment. I just think there needs to be a healthy mix of big-scale, cheap producers and small scale, high value producers. Not everyone can afford the best all the time - and while I love my Selin's Grove Brewing Company beer (they don't even brew enough to bottle - sales are all by draft at the bar - if you're ever even remotely close to central Pennsylvania, take a detour and check it out, it's worth it), I also enjoy Yuengling (and tend to find the $13.99 price for a case of cans considerably more affordable).

There are trade-offs to everything, but the local, organic beef I get is cheaper and tastes better.

What would you do if it wasn't (cheaper and better tasting)? Would you buy from a local farmer who grew beef with some commercial methods, but still treated his cows well and turned out a superior product? That's my problem with organic produce - I know a lot of small time farmers who don't have the resources to go organic all the way, but are still turning out some great local produce (and at a much more affordable price than those who are slapping the organic label on their beets). I support variety and local production, but I also support having a full range of options, including the commercial product. Maybe your point is that that stuff is already there, so we really need to push the organic, and I think there's some validity to that argument, but I also think that unfairly demonizing commercial production could have consequences down the road (which is what the Economist article is pointing out).

Ce n'est pas une pipe. C'est une signature.

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Re: Missing the Point

marburg.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 11:19:28 AM EST

none

Not everyone can afford the best all the time

This is true, though I'd argue that as the US has shifted over the past 50 years to such a pro-corporate culture, we have simultaneously accepted a widening of the wealth gap and a reduction in quality that means lower prices.  TV dinners cost nothing to make, and after we, as a society, literally ate those up and gave so much power and influence to larger producers, we were also subjected to the decrease in the ability of lower and middle class citizens to buy things relative to the wealthy.

So I agree, but I also think it probably doesn't have to be that way if we broaden the scope of the conversation to include politics, policy decisions, appropriate subsidies, and so on.

What would you do if it wasn't (cheaper and better tasting)? Would you buy from a local farmer who grew beef with some commercial methods, but still treated his cows well and turned out a superior product?

Probably.  I'm hardly rigid in the specific principles on this matter.  Very few things will ever be perfect.  But I do keep my house high fructose corn syrup and trans fat free, and that's not that costly to do (in my experience) unless one is in a position where literally every dime makes a big difference.  And I try to do my best with the meat, wine, cheese, beer, tea, et cetera that I drink.  I have a sort of vague notion of "natural" and "authentic" in my head that ties to these principles, and if it's in that area, I'm all for it.

You're absolutely right that there will be a need for a mix of large and small producers for the forseeable future.  But I'd argue that we're in the golden age of big producers, where they can spend money on building stores that lose money simply to keep their competitors from taking that parcel of land.  We're witnessing that competition in Michigan between Wal-Mart and Meijer in many ways.  And as that happens more and more, it becomes harder and harder for people, who are kept increasingly busy in their work by this same corporate culture, to get out and make decisions on what they're eating and drinking.

I think I sense that we don't disagree all that much.

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Economics, growing more dismal by the year

Territan.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 01:12:50 PM EST

none

marburg: I think it's important to have an investment in "the little guy," something the writers at The Economist surely know nothing about.

Seconded.

Over the decades, medical science has worked hard to progress, identifying more and more trace chemical compounds and microorganisms which have profound effects on the function of the body, both beneficial and detrimental.

By comparison, economics has maintained a brute-force approach, usually being obsessed with Bigger! Bigger! More! More! More! to the point that small details like organic growth, fair-trade assurances, and other such attributes connoting conscience-friendliness, are lost on them. Whether or not those notions actually add quality to the products in question (the consensus seems to be "not always, but usually"), they have tangible effects on markets, and rather than take them into account, economists tend to try to explain them away or claim that they shouldn't really be having those effects.

10

Sorry, TE eds

tomc.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 04:13:33 PM EST

3.00 (interesting)

I was not impressed with some of the circular logic of the article.  Organic foods means more land for crops; current agribiz produces more food than we shall ever need.  Hmm....

Then factor in that agribiz fields are so drained of nutrients that current cultivated land requires more and more chemicals to produce less and less crops....

Sometimes The Economist eds are right on, and sometimes they just miss the boat, and this is a case of the latter.

We buy mainly organic.  Especially milk and butter.  I mean, hey:  if a human mom eats broccoli while nursing, her baby will get gas.  So what goes into a cow (or goat) gets passed on to us in a pretty concentrated kinda way.

The good news is that agribiz is catching on - they know where folks are spending their money, so now we have organic Heinz ketchup, etc.  The irony is that as the big boys move into this new market, the brave farmers who started to answer the market for organic food are now being squeezed out of the game.

5

Who Owns Organic?

coquito.

Mon Dec 18, 2006 at 10:03:19 AM EST

none

Thought some of you might find this informative:

http://cornucopia.org/index.php/who-owns-organic/

Now with caps!

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