The Road to Hell is Paved with Fair Trade Coffee Bricks
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Posted to Etcetera on Sat Dec 16, 2006 at 08:06:15 AM EST (promoted by port1080). RSS.
This week's Economist includes a special feature devoted to taking down a notch the three most popular movements for food activism: Organics, Fair Trade, and Local Food.
The appeal of Organic food is that it is not made with pesticides or synthetic fertilizers, increasing the sustainability of the practice. But this type of farming process produces lower yields of food per acre than one can get using synthetic fertilizers. Agriculture pioneer Norman Borlaug contends that if the pro-synthetic principles of his Green Revolution had not been followed, the world would require triple the amount of current farmland to feed the current population, endangering rainforest land even more than it is now. What's more, the energy saved by not using synthetic fertilizers is more than counterbalanced by the additional energy needed to plow and weed the land.
FAIRTRADE certification is supposed to guarantee to you the consumer that your product was negotiated with producers in the third world at prices that support sustainable development. But Fair Trade practices may also create more problems than they solve. The certification process bypasses larger farms and plantations that employ many laborers in order to funnel money to a few. Furthermore, the certification acts as a subsidy to keep farmers in the business of unprofitable products instead of diversifying into more lucrative crops. And now that the noted malnutrition profiteer and occasional union-buster Nestlé has started selling its own line of Fairtrade-certified coffee, some within the movement are wondering if the certification is meaningful any more.
The appeal of locally produced food is that one can get food fresh and cut their energy footprint. But, the calculation of energy usage is not so simple as figuring out the farm's distance. Some foods are simply not suited to the local climate, and to provide the heat/water/shelter required to grow them may take more energy than it takes to ship it from another continent. Farmer's markets are rarer than supermarkets, and the amount of extra gas spent by two hundred cars can outweigh the energy requirements of a refrigerator truck.
The Economist article concludes, a little out of character, that the best way to affect change in food policy is through political action and not consumption habits. This is not a certain conclusion--many of the article's points are easily mitigated by a growth in popularity of organics, or of more novel approaches to farming. But what is to be done if it comes out that you are simply unable to buy your favorite food without contributing somehow to global misery?
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