Business

Slum Tourism

MayorBob.

Posted to Business on Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 11:26:37 AM EST (promoted by port1080). RSS.

Kibera is the largest slum town near Nairobi, Kenya.  It is home to close to one million Kenyans living on the razor's edge of economic survival in a succession of tin shacks and shanties.  It's a place many residents have worked very hard to move away from.  It was used as a filming location for the movie The Constant Gardener.  It has also become a "must visit" spot on the itineraries of such notables as UN Secretary General Ban Ki-Moon and US comedian Chris Rock.  Time to walk about and take in a measure of that which Kibera has in plentitude - human misery.  But, it is also becoming an optional tourist stop for the not so notables who visit Kenya.  Call it slum tourism or pity tourism, there is a burgeoning trade in tour groups piling into Kibera, taking their photos, and leaving.  In spite of the fact that this commerce is promoted and appreciated by travel agencies earning a penny off the tours, it has any number of Kenyans and those who have worked with the poor of Kibera feeling not so good about slum tourism.

The Nation, a local Nairobi paper, asks "what is this fascination with Kibera among people who do not know what real poverty means?"  That editorial question was pointed at Ban Ki-Moon, Rock, and the thousands of tourists who have made a trek to Kibera part of their Kenyan experience.  The residents of Kibera frankly miss the point behind the tourism.  One local observed the tourists seem to come, walk about, take some photos, and then return home to "tell their friends  they've been to the worst slum in Africa."  For him, nothing changes as a result of the tours and he suggests, if they really wish to experience what it's like to be on the shit end of the economic stick, they should "come and spend a night, or walk round when it's pouring with rain here and the paths are like rivers."

Even the aid groups who work in Kibera are put off by the slum tourism.  Salim Mohamed, a project director for one American charity working in Kibera, says part of the problems has been that the tourism began to high expectations that all this attention would result in some economic goodness flowing back to Kibera.  Those expectations have gone unmet and all that has occurred is a bunch of tourists coming to see how miserable life in Kibera is.  According to Mohamed: "It's getting out of control ... it's insulting to them ... Kibera does not need pity tours, it needs action."  Christine Ochieng, one of Mohamed's coworkers sees the situation as extremely unfair.  Ochieng says the tourists don't see the real work being done to help the poor of Kibera; they focus on "poverty, poverty, poverty" and fail to see that Kibera even has a middle class.

James Asudi is general manager of Victoria Tours, which has been running what they call pro-poor tours.  According to Asudi: "People are getting tired of the Masai Mara and wildlife. No one is enlightening us about other issues. So I've come up with a new thing -- slum tours."  He insists the tours are beneficial to the people of Kibera because he offers money back to his tourists they can donate to a school or a health project they saw on the tour.  Mwende Mwinzi, writing in The Nation doesn't seem to share any appreciation for whatever "benefits" the tours might be bringing to Kibera:

"It's the rave spot in Kenya. For where else can one see it all in one simple stop? The Aids victims dying slowly on a cold cardboard bed. The breastless teenager selling her wares "because I must feed siblings." Plastic-eating goats fighting small children for waste heaps that make toys - or food. The communal water taps, running sewage, and - ah yes, the famous "shit-rolls-downhill-flying-toilets." It is unbeatable!"

Tags: edited by Port1080, written by MayorBob, tourism, Africa, poverty (all tags)

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Re: Slum Tourism

rEvolution inAction.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 12:19:53 PM EST

none

All I can say is WTF. Really.. who the hell wants to see human misery... and who wants to see it and then not do anything about it?

All profits made are donated to a specific slum activity.
Like...? Starvation? Suffering? They're happy to pimp the orphans.. but they're a bit light on the details of what they are actually doing.

If this was an elaborate scam to get rich tourists into an area where they could be ambushed, Robin Hood-styles.. I could almost approve of it.. but there just seems to be much better ways to deal with this situation other than turning a slum into a sideshow.

Tipping Sacred Cows

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Re: Slum Tourism

nmiguy.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 12:47:22 PM EST

none

 who the hell wants to see human misery...

rEv misery is a big seller.  People watch torture and whatnot on 24, people buy books with gratuitous violence and suffering.  Human misery is a big draw in this world.  People can't seem to get enough of it.  As soon as it starts to go away, there seem to be more than enough people trying to make more of it.  

Reminds me of an old comedian (I think it was Louie Anderson or Sam Kinison) who remarked about Sally Struthers and those commercials she made showing the starving kids, hos she should give them a sandwich, but the producer is like "no, they need to look HUNGRY!"  or something like that.  

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Re: Slum Tourism

rEvolution inAction.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 03:04:01 PM EST

none

If by misery you mean drama.. then yes... true misery.. no one wants to see that.. except apparently these poverty-tourists.

Tipping Sacred Cows

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Re: Slum Tourism

Lou.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 04:57:57 PM EST

none

If by misery you mean drama.. then yes... true misery.. no one wants to see that.. except apparently these poverty-tourists.

Nah...we love the misery too.  It resonates with our Shadenfrued gland.  

It's the end of the world as we know it, and I feel fine

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Good and Bad

Milo.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 12:55:41 PM EST

none

I like to travel.  I've been to a few "3rd world" countries.  I can immediately see some good and bad in this idea.


The good comes in two ways.  First, I think it is important for rich Westerners to see what real poverty is.  I often think that some of our trade policies are based on some idealized view of poor countries -- for example that Kenyans are all traditional hunters (or some silliness like that).  Seeing people struggle in slums might make you think twice about how bad it might be to work 60 hours a week in a textile factory.  I don't know how many times I've had debates with people on [that other site] where they seemed to have absolutely no idea what it is like to live in a poor country -- but would choose to make policy decisions "in their best interests."


Second, money will flow to the local residents.  In less developed countries, everyone is a business owner.  Very few people work for someone else.  They do what they can to make money.  It shouldn't (and won't) take too long for locals to find ways to earn some of those tourist dollars.  Heck, I was just at the Grand Canyon.  Just outside the park American Indians were selling traditional crafts in markets at "viewpoints" along the road.


The downside is the potential for creating dependence on tourists overpaying.  This is a very important point.  In countries like this you always need to negotiate prices.  If you go in as a tourist, you will always be quoted an unreasonably high price in local markets.  For you it may only be a dollar -- not worth arguing about.  The problem is that you create a kind of welfare state.  If people pay for the "value" of the goods or services they produce, the right amount of goods will be produced.  If you overpay, you'll have too many people making trinkets and trying to score a big sale to a tourist.  That will be fine for them, but it will not allow that economy to grow from a cheap tourist destination to one that can compete globally.


I remember specifically being in a resort-ish town in central Vietnam.  There were hotels along the beach and a town two miles away.  You could walk into town or get a ride on the back of a motorbike.  The motorbike "taxi drivers" would always ask for about five or so times what they needed for a ride into town from tourists.  Many tourists would pay that price -- maybe not knowing better, maybe not caring.  The result was that you have a dozen taxi drivers sitting around waiting for that single tourist fare to make up their day (or hour or whatever) worth of work.  If they got paid the right price, there would be far fewer taxi drivers and they'd all be busy (like in New York or Paris or London).


-milo

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Re: Good and Bad

rEvolution inAction.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 03:01:27 PM EST

none

Very interesting take.. I do believe you are correct, but you would also have to pay fair value for normal (non-tourist crap) goods produced.. that just isn't going to happen anytime soon.

Tipping Sacred Cows

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Re: Good and Bad

Milo.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 03:15:08 PM EST

none

but you would also have to pay fair value for normal (non-tourist crap) goods produced.. that just isn't going to happen anytime soon.


I'm not sure what you mean.  If the locals produced corn or textiles, they would get the market price for that, too, wouldn't they?  They problem is that they don't have the infrastructure to make that stuff economically.  Maybe an infusion of cash (from gawking tourists) would help build that infrastructure.

-milo

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Re: Good and Bad

rEvolution inAction.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 03:26:41 PM EST

5.00 (astute)

No.. they sell it for local market value to people who transport it to somewhere else where they sell it for international market value.

Tipping Sacred Cows

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Re: Slum Tourism

thefadd.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 02:15:56 PM EST

none

There's a lot of reasons to bash slum tourism and I'm certainly not going to come out in favor of it. Least of all, I'm sure the residents would appreciate the gawkers staying away and just sending along the cost of the trip.

However, there is something to be said for expanding people's minds and exposing them to the problems that other people face. Unlike most of us (dare I say) not everyone really has a tangible concept of the fact that the rest of the world doesn't live like they do. In Philadelphia in the late 80's there was a kid from the suburbs who (so the story goes) was driving through the city with his mom when he saw a homeless person. Because of the sheltered way his parents raised him, he thought this was the only homeless person in the whole entire world. He made his mom stop the car and give the guy their extra blankets. When told there were more, he started a foundation to give blankets and then other stuff to homeless people. I don't know whatever became of it, but the foundation lasted for at least a good 10 years. It had vans and other infrastructure to aid in getting help to homeless people in the city.

My own exposure to other people's problems in life wasn't entirely different from slum tourism, though at a far more minimal level. When riding through the city as a child in my parents car, my parents took the risk of driving through the less favorable neighborhoods so that I could see the way other people had to live. To profit off it is one thing, but showing people how others live can have a long term impact on helping the people of the world to understand one another better and I don't think that should be lost in the conversation.

escalators never fail; they just become stairs

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Re: Slum Tourism

Milo.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 03:36:03 PM EST

none

However, there is something to be said for expanding people's minds and exposing them to the problems that other people face.


It has really affected me.  I made a post above, but let me give another anecdote:


I was traveling in Southern Africa.  Usually when I travel someplace far I try to pick up souvenirs for friends and family.  I had packed a lot of old clothes with the intention of throwing some of them out at the end of my trip to make room for gifts.


My last few days were in Livingstone in Zambia.  This is a town right near Victoria Falls, so probably a little richer (and more tourist friendly) than the rest of the country.  There was a market near my hotel where you could buy all the "local" gifts.  I know, being an obvious Westerner, that I'm going to get asked exorbitant prices, so I always go in with the intention of negotiating hard.


The problem with negotiating in that instance is that you really have no idea what the things cost to make or are really worth.  So I usually argue until I get the lowest price and then ask for something lower, threatening to walk away.  If they let me walk, I'll come back (later) and pay the "right" price.  Eventually I'll learn what things should cost and I just negotiate for that price.


At this particular market, it was off-peak season and I went early in the day.  It was a small market and for a time I was the only tourist there.  That meant that everyone was focused on getting me to buy something.  When I found something I liked, I'd pay what I thought was fair.  Otherwise, I'd politely say I wasn't interested.


One particular guy, who had nothing that interested me, was trying to get me to buy something small, anything, for cheap.  Then he said, "I'll trade you one of these for your socks."  My old, dirty, used tube socks -- off my feet.  Knowing these guys are professionals at getting money from tourists, I was suspicious that it was a ploy.  But I told him I had some socks and t-shirts in my room that I didn't want and I'd bring then to him for free.  A couple of other people overheard and were pretty anxious to get some too.


Later I went back to my room.  I couldn't bring myself to give them unclean (sweaty, dirty) t-shirts or socks.  But I brought back a handful of items that I had washed.  Several of the people were waiting for me at the market and were very, very happy to get a pair or two of used socks or an old t-shirt.  That's when it really struck home to me how much richer I am.


The other, dirty clothes, I left in the trash can in my room.  When I was leaving the hotel, I remembered that I left something back in the room and went to pick it up.  When I got there, the "maid" was already cleaning.  I noticed that she'd pulled my smelly old t-shirts from the trash and had packed them up to take home.  As I was walking away, I remembered that I had some local currency that I would never get to convert back to dollars so I went back and gave her a little "tip" -- probably more than she made in a week.


-milo
 

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Re: Slum Tourism

thefadd.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 04:02:11 PM EST

none

You hear a lot about Mexicans (and others from further south) trying to get into America. It's nearly inescapable living in a border state. But it never really struck me the way it did until I went to Mexico and came across a brand name called "Cross Or Die." I had to think for a second "cross what" before realizing the fact that such a brand name exists, most people in Mexico wouldn't have had to think, "cross what."

escalators never fail; they just become stairs

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Purchasing parity is a bitch

gerrymander.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 04:29:48 PM EST

none

Most of the international traveling I've done was for business, so I haven't dealt much with the whole bargaining tradition. On those few times when I could have had the occasion, I've avoided it, because it's a no-win situation. If you don't negotiate, you look like a fool or an asshole. But there's no benefit to negotiation, either, if afterward you think, "Boy, I got that 500 Padooga price down to only 250. That's a savings in dollars of... 32 cents. Go, me."

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Re: Purchasing parity is a bitch

Thalia.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 at 01:13:15 AM EST

none

Agreed.  Even worse is that you realize that it was 32 cents to you, and a day's wages to that person you insisted you wouldn't pay it to.  It's one of the reasons I have a hard time buying in places with bargaining traditions.  I feel badly bargaining over 50 cents, which means nothing to me, and quite a lot to the guy trying to sell me something.  Which is why, in the end, I prefer finding the people who make the object (who tend not to be the ones selling them near the tourist spots), getting them to sign the object, and overpaying them horribly.

Thalia

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Re: Purchasing parity is a bitch

gerrymander.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 at 09:56:13 AM EST

none

I prefer finding the people who make the object (who tend not to be the ones selling them near the tourist spots), getting them to sign the object, and overpaying them horribly.

That's an approach I hadn't thought of, but will have to keep in mind next time the occasion arises. Thanks, Thalia!

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Re: Purchasing parity is a bitch

Milo.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 at 10:13:53 AM EST

none

I feel badly bargaining over 50 cents, which means nothing to me, and quite a lot to the guy trying to sell me something.


But that guy who you refuse to negotiate with is doing a legitimate job.  The same job that Walmart or Macy's does here in the States.  I don't think you should feel bad about paying him.  And bargaining with him is certainly better than paying him nothing.


Which is why, in the end, I prefer finding the people who make the object... getting them to sign the object, and overpaying them horribly.


But overpaying is just going to bring more people into a job with little utility.  In the long run, for the local economy, you're really hurting more than you're helping.  "Give a man a fish..."


-milo

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Re: Purchasing parity is a bitch

Thalia.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 at 03:53:36 PM EST

none

I figure that overpaying the artisan is better than overpaying the market hawker.  I'm teaching him, maybe, that dealing directly with tourists & making pretty/functional/interesting things is a better job than accosting tourists in the market.  At least, that's what I'm trying to indicate.  Given that I'm not going to go there & become a real teacher and teach actual life skills (and to be honest I wouldn't know what useful life skills are in places like that), I think this is the best I can do.  My choices are to keep my money out of the economy, to give my money to someone whose job is selling, or to give my money to someone who makes things.  I tend to choose option #3.  What's your suggestion?

Thalia

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Re: Purchasing parity is a bitch

Milo.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 at 05:05:55 PM EST

none

Give your money to the guy who sells things (though I still think you need to at least try not to overpay).  It's a different skill and one that must be learned in an economy.  Some of your money will certainly go to the maker.  This way you'll feed and teach two people instead of one.  You'll also be teaching them to specialize, which is a very important step in a developing economy.


If you want to teach sellers not to "accost" tourists, I suggest you don't buy to shut someone up.  Go to their stand and look at what they have.  If you like something, buy it.  If you don't, walk away.  If they follow you, firmly let them know you are not interested and don't give in.  I've found that if you are fair and you don't give in to pressure, they will treat you fair and not pressure you.


-milo

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Re: Purchasing parity is a bitch

rEvolution inAction.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 at 05:48:05 PM EST

none

As someone who has worked in the sales field.. don't ever give money to salespeople.

Tipping Sacred Cows

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Ugly Lies

keta.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 at 02:24:00 PM EST

none

Check out the assurance at the bottom of the web site linked, "running what they call pro-poor tours."

Victoria Safaris offer customized tours of the Kibera slum and its facilities all year round. All profits made are donated to a specific slum activity.

This cynic sneers at this statement, and ruefully shakes his head at how such a bald-faced lie would quell any guilt associated with having some macabre fascination of touring a slum.  "But look honey, in a way we're helping all those poor, miserable bastards."

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